all walks.

All Walks Beyond The Catwalk launched almost 2 years ago - London Fashion Week, September 2009. In their own words:

"All Walks Beyond the Catwalk is an initiative founded by Caryn Franklin, Debra Bourne and Erin O’Connor working with influential Catwalk designers and top industry creatives to celebrate more diversity within the fashion industry."

I bring it up now as this year, All Walks had a stand and did some press at GFW (they did last year, too, but I wasn't there in 2010), and beforehand, Caryn Franklin made the trip up north to give a (really interesting) talk at Northumbria.

That was, of course, some months ago (April, I think? Maybe even March...) but that's when the work started to pile up and I never did get round to writing about the project.

It's an inspiring one, though - the mission is, ultimately, to change the way the fashion industry works, encouraging diversity in the industry, changing the way the media presents fashion, and showing women everywhere that the beauty standard is not the tall, thin, young and white look set by the industry (for the most part) today.

Rankin shoot//i-D shoot - from allwalks.org

In their two short years, the project has launched high profile campaigns - features in i-D, events at LFW and GFW, and at the National Portrait Gallery - and has attracted big name designers (Vivienne Westwood, Matthew Williamson, Stella McCartney etc) and other big industry names (Rankin shot the first big campaign, above) as well as new names on the scene (Mark Fast, David Koma, Hannah Marshall etc). With the big, influential names of the future now getting involved, it's easy to assume that progression has been made, but only time will tell.

At Northumbria, Caryn talked a little about All Walks, but also about women, media, fashion and beauty in general and raised some points I couldn't ignore. Trying to decipher my months-old notes is a challenge, but my scribbles include points like:

- caucasian women, on average, have lower self esteem than those of colour, and are more represented in fashion. Coincidence?

- manipulation of images damages mental health, but while it's illegal to misrepresent a fridge, for example, in advertising etc, you can change a man or woman's body beyond recognition without anyone batting an eyelid.

- the availability of catwalk images compared to 30 years ago means we are now reaching a global audience, which means model's looks are too.

Most impotantly to me, I think, she asked, do designers not have the skills to dress women of different body types?

I can assure you, we aren't taught such skills. We aren't taught to grade patterns (how hard can that be?) or what flatters someone who isn't model-sized. There isn't time, I suppose - on my course, there wouldn't be the time/money/resources to produce a collection in final year for anyone who wasn't model sized, for example, but somewhere in the 4 years (or even on a 3 year course), would there not be room for a project for a plus-sized women, or a petite women, for example? I've certainly seen a couple of jobs advertised for plus sized designers which I haven't applied for, knowing I'm not confident that I could design successfully for such a customer.

That isn't to my advantage.

In fact, it's to no one's advantage.

All Walks is doing something important and necessary; something I hope any other bloggers reading this can appreciate. The majority of bloggers are real people with real body shapes; a lot of you work in the industry, or are hoping to at some point. You can get involved and raise awareness with a quick visit to the site (linked at the top of the page). I can only encourage you to get your tutors/bosses involved too, or spread the word if you can.

In the meantime, follow All Walks and Caryn Franklin on twitter...

full of Grace.

Just bringing this Guardian interview with Grace Woodward to your attention - I think she makes some great and very true points about the industry, particularly this run of questions:

Fashion is often perceived as a lowbrow, fluffy subject. Does that annoy you?

Fashion is art, and there are designers who are geniuses. It's highbrow. Are you saying Hussein Chalayan isn't a genius? I have felt demeaned when saying I work in fashion but that's only because people don't understand what I do. They confuse styling and fashion with the high street.

So what is the difference?

Fashion, in its purest sense, is about breaking rules. High street is a watered-down interpretation. I am a stylist, and style is neither fashion nor high street. Stylish people tend to shop the least because they aren't swayed by what's on-trend or in-store.

You're not a fan of Primark then?

I appreciate the high street but "fashion" for the masses is everywhere, like processed white bread. Everyone eats it.

The fashion industry is often accused of being run by interns. Do you agree with this culture of unpaid work?

I blame universities. They are taking 60-plus students on their fashion courses when there just aren't enough jobs out there. It's irresponsible because they end up interning for no payback. Why is there no accredited apprenticeship scheme with fashion houses, where designers get paid to impart a trade that makes you viable? I have thought about going to David Cameron about it. It's giving fashion a bad name.

You seem passionate about the ethics of the industry – what's your take on the body image debate? Do you resent fashion getting the blame?

Fashion magazines shouldn't have to bear the weight of the responsibility. It's a lazy observation, cultivated by the media. Like I said, we are trying to create a fantasy, not tell people how to look. I know it sounds like a flimsy argument but I don't think you can nanny people. It's a psychological issue. It's not fashion's fault.

the plight of aa.

American Apparel is renowned for a number of things. whether that's for being a blogger favourite - a well publicised brand in this currently rather internet reliant industry, a mainstay in the eyes of communities like chictopia and lookbook.nu; for their somewhat over-sexualised ads or for their somewhat oversexed CEO; or more recently for their ever increasing money problems.

the highly sexualised reputation of both AA and Dov Charney are, mostly, taking the blame for what could be the companies demise, but is that really the cause? I MEAN REALLY? it's not like this is a new development - in the beginning, there was the image. at the height of AA-fever, there was the image. AA is the image. there is no escaping the image.

we are to blame, if anything, that ol' fashion-foe, the economy.

of course, here's some personal experience: i have but one AA item, a moss green tube dress which has rather lost it's elasticity, and cost me 22 of my best british pounds a couple of years ago. good quality, ill give you that. a great basic. a good jersey piece. despite its tendency to slip down now when i wear it as a dress, i keep it in my wardrobe. it makes a good skirt when belted and twisted into some sort of shape. i still like it. but two years later, £22 wouldn't get me much in AA. take, for example, the lace trim cycling shorts.

they've become quite the must-have item, especially for this modesty-concious cyclist, but a pair of (shiny, and therefore not ideal) shorts in the covent garden AA store (oh yes, i've done my research) would've set be back a whopping £28. TWENTY. EIGHT. POUNDS.

FOR SHORTS.

FOR CYCLING SHORTS WHICH WILL BE WORN UNDER THINGS.

FOR, ESSENTIALLY, AN ITEM OF UNDERWEAR.

WHAT?

....you can get similar lace trimmed cycling shorts, in a lovely matt jersey, in H&M for under a fiver. i think it is obvious where one such as myself would rather purchase my shorts.

once could argue that AA have their ethics and USA-produced garments and that's the reason for their high prices, but when one has increasingly high debts and clothes that are approx. 7 times more expensive than your competitors; maybe it's time for a rethink. the hipster vote isn't going to help you now, Dov, no matter how you try to change your image*

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*what with new product lines and such. you may have noticed that AA is no longer merely where spandex goes to die, but also home to sheer loveliness (maxis; blouses; frilly tu-tu affairs) and other gorgeous non-jersey pieces (i really, REALLY like the tailored trousers in store atm); and i will forever be a fan of the huge range of colours available, but alas, AA, i and many like me can't afford most of your wares, and as such, you are doomed. additionally, your sizing is a little mental. i'm 90% sure the aforementioned tube dress I own is a medium. i'm a size 8/10. surely only children fit into the XS size?!?

blank expression

If you're a reader of style.com (of course you are), or indeed, up on your fash journalism types, you'll know of Tim Blanks. He covers the big shows; he goes off on tangents; he is awesome. He's also not too google-able - I couldn't find a biog nor nowt (on the first page of searching. What, I'm not going in-depth for this.).

Good job Vice done an interview with 'im then; very exciting.

pic from Vice, yeah?

So I knew he was all kinds of awesome, but I didn't know just how awesome...

Gander at some soundbites:

"I file so far after the deadline that the editor has no choice but to run with my tangents."

"I know a tiny bit about a huge number of things."

"I’m always obsessing about a couple of things - a band, an artist - to the point where I want to find out everything there is to know about them."

And he likes the XX. (Vidi the interview...)

What we can establish from this is that essentially, me and Tim are the same person. Wonderful! I'm off to pick up my paycheck from style.com; you stay here and read these three Q&A's, which both delighted and inspired me.

Which fashion magazines are doing the most to change fashion?
English ones.

Who are the most interesting designers?
Ones who aren’t afraid to fail.

What are the key ingredients of a good collection?
An unhinged intelligence, a sense of humour, and a strong morbid streak.

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the trouble with tavi; or 'why IS everyone jealous of a 13-year-old?'

There seems to have been an influx of Tavi related posts around lately - on blogs that I read; blogs that they've linked too; in magazines; quotes on sites from various fashion aficionados....etc etc.

Hell, she even defended/commented on her own mass of press in a recent blog post.

I never really intended to join in with this somewhat random trend - it wasn't necessary. It isn't necessary. I'm not in the habit of commenting on other blogs - there's room for everyone in the blogosphere; you read those that you want, you bookmark what you like, you forget what you don't - but sometimes it's good to articulate things, and rather than dabble in the aforementioned influx of posts, leaving comments, I might as well put my thoughts all together in one place.

If you have been living under a rock, or y'know, aren't immersed fully within the fashion blogging world then really do click the link above and ponder Tavi's blog.

Ponder far enough to see some of her writing on fashion and also some of her outfit posts - I honestly do think she writes in an interesting way, and I follow her blog because of the way she writes.

Also...well, I mean, when I was 13 I was busy playing on Neopets and such like, so to see someone at that age be so passionate about something is kinda sweet, if a little precocious. Which is something I too have been labelled in the past.

One thing I won't really comment on, though, are claims that 'it's not her who writes it'. The claim that comes to mind cites the Rodarte video Tavi made for their Target line as their source, saying that in person, the way she talks of fashion doesn't sit with the blog musings. I haven't seen the video, but I second some comments I've seen that express their disbelief that anyone who would write a blog like that; that successful; would let a middle school student take the credit.

My only...problem? That's not the word, but that's the only one I can think of. My reservation, perhaps. Or, my first thought upon hearing of her and checking her out... is that Tavi's style isn't all that, to me. I know, I know, style is subjective, but I think the point is that, to me, her style only works because of her age.
The 'throw anything on' approach sometimes comes close to bag lady territory in my eyes, but at 13 that's ok, even kind of cute. A juxtaposition, certainly. I understand the interest, but it's not for me.

But that's fine. As I said, style is subjective and my style isn't for everyone, as is true of any blogger. Any PERSON.

I can't help but bring to mind a memory of myself at around that age. Early 2000's. Height of boho. Wore a cream maxi/gypsy style skirt to non-uniform day at school and was the source of much bemusement to my classmates, who were all dressed in jeans or tracksuit bottoms. God knows what would've happened to me had I been as often OTT as Tavi...

To address this blog title though...she's everywhere.
She's front row at Dior Couture.
She's writing for POP and Harper's Bazaar.
She is, essentially, living the dream life of a fashion journalist; but without having "earned it".

I don't mean to say she hasn't written in an interesting manner, expressed views, engaged readers and otherwise been a journalist, but I'm imagining this from the perspective of those who consider themselves "real" journalists; those who've worked for years to earn degrees and worked their way up in the industry, probably in the days before blogs, who are suddenly competing for jobs with girls who won't be joining the working world for at least another 5 years (and that's if she doesn't go to college, which given her clearly high IQ level is unlikely, right?).

Lesley Blume, Style Editor for the Huffington Post thinks "...she’s very dear, but I think it’s crazy. I think it was insulting enough when we were expected as adult women to take our fashion cues from Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen. All of a sudden women in the fashion world were starting to look like bag ladies. I mean, that’s very silly."

from this post at TheCut

(which is a good read)

To Ms Blume, I say: What does age have to do with style? Really? As we get older, perhaps, tastes get more refined, but the highly influential street style blogs are saturated with young people. Not usually as young as Tavi, but certainly teens and 20-somethings.

Essentially, it seems to boil down to this: the backlash has begun.

As is normal for any phenomenon which blows up in such a manner as Tavi-madness has, people - it must be said, particularly those in the industry, including such heavyweights as Anne Slowey off of Elle magazine - have begun to question the sanity of the situation. In fact, Slowey's words were as follows:

"People in fashion are constantly looking for the next unique boundary-pushing extreme thing to get excited about, but, you know, it’s like outsider art. What am I getting out of a 13-year-old’s opinion about fashion? How does that help me distill the collections? What am I supposed to be buying? That’s what an editor’s job at a magazine is."

To read a blog is one thing. You choose to read, you choose not to, you make your presuppositions about the person who writes the blog. But I suppose what Slowey means is; people choose to read Tavi's views on fashion on her blog, but for these views to be in a magazine is to assume people should value her opinion.

Surely this is where the jealousy sets in. There's going to shows and being a bit of a fashion darling - and there are plenty of bloggers these days who do get invited to shows and presentations and work with designers on varying projects - and then there's writing for magazines; the big hitters.

It's a little ridiculous for the editors of such magazines to get up on their high horses about it, but I could understand why, say, a freelancer might worry and even hit out at bloggers - not just Tavi, of course - who are writing in guest spots and columns which they could be writing in; making money for.

But it comes down to what's going to sell magazines, whether by good writing or publicity. Those hitting out should probably consider spending less time ranting about 'those damn teenagers' and more time honing their talents, less they come off petty and bitter.

As for those not being professionally "threatened" by Tavi's opportunities of writing and attending shows and such - man up. Yeah, we'd all love a gifted Stephen Jones hat, but if it's gonna happen, it's gonna happen. Plus, yknow, jealousy isn't a good look.

Basically, for all the rise in blogging and "the fall of paper media", there is a certain audience for each, and there are a large portion of those who read Vogue, Elle or Harper's who don't read blogs.

To be published in one of these magazines is a big deal; a piece which will a) be read be thousands; millions of people and b) likely be on record for ever, at that. (I mean, our Uni library has every UK & US Vogue ever published available for the reading) - and it means the fashion people; those who have real influence over fashion; value your opinion and think their readers should too.

And quite frankly, who wouldn't be jealous of that?

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and now lacroix?!?!?

NOOOOOO

;_________;

Damn you recession, I could almost handle Luella, but Lacroix?? The label has been in jeopardy since May (it's been in administration, with Paris' commercial court approving a turnaround plan just this week), and has now had to close production on both the couture and ready to wear lines...

Lacroix was one of the labels which got me into fashion in the first place; the fantastical designs a prime example of the lengths fashion could go to...

This article from The Guardian tells more, but this is such sad news. At least there's hope yet, since the label isn't in complete liquidation, right??

Ahhh, A/W 09...

...and S/S 09 Couture (since A/W was a pared down affair, let's celebrate the grandiosity of previous years; whatwhat.)

all images from style.com

candy shop

Candy is the new magazine from Luis Venegas, creator of Fanzine 137 and Electric Youth! (neither of which I've heard of before, but I'm gonna go have a little dig around in a minute cos I'm somewhat interested now). There's a feature and interview at Dazed Digital...

It's the world's first transversal style magazine!

I'm pretty sure my workmate off of placement (Eudald @ weneedanewman) went along to the launch party in Hoxton last week.

Luke Worral makes an excellent woman.

Vidi the launch video:

CANDY 1 from Luis Venegas on Vimeo.

So yeah, it's full of editorials featuring male models in drag; Lacroix couture and Rodarte's web-like knits; and "some of the most iconic figures in trans-history", as well as contributions from the likes of photographer Bruce Weber. Exciting!

Some examples?

J'adore le sparkly corset!

Reminds me of this slice of heaven (sometimes it would be nice to have smaller boobs. I'm most certainly not fitting into a 32B.)

It can be found here at ebay... I think I might be DIY-ing, it's just too fabulous.

Candy, as Fanzine 137 and Electric Youth!, is printed in a limited run of 1000 copies, and A/W 09/10 is on sale now!