pfw snapshot.

a bit of rochas, rue du mail and limi feu, now.

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rochas

i found the collection as a whole to be a bit all over the place; in terms of colour and silhouette (though the florals prints and silky fabrics were pretty consistent), but that huge-skirted floral number is stunning and needed to be included. such an urge to throw big jumpers (or something in a poofy textured skirt for the first number) over these looks and mix some textures for autumn...

more at style.com

rue du mail

these few looks happen to be the opening few looks, but the pulled thread/ladder technique here really grabbed me, especially in the third look when combined with some sheers (and the blue/cream colour scheme).

more at style.com

limi feu

again, it was one look (the third dress with the curved, ruched, under-bust hem) which grabbed me here, and made me glance through the collection again. lots of great pieces, but these 4 looks were the ones which stood out to me, for various reasons. limi really has a way of making simple cuts look amazingly cool (must be a japanese thing; it's certainly a trick often pulled off by the expert hands of both yohji and rei at CDG) - i mean, look at the way that jacket flows, or aforementioned dress slouches in just the right way... marvellous.

the countdown

Part trends to watch out for, I guess, but mostly pieces and looks I loved that I want to be wearing now, let alone when autumn comes around again.

10 - Piece: Shoes at Balenciaga

I guess these are coming down on a love/hate divide all over, but I can't get enough of them.

I think this is my favourite colourway.

9 - Look: Vera Wang

Sheer AND ruffly; styled so it's not too girly. Can not find fault.

8 - Look: Limi Feu

Just too awesome.

7 - Collection: No21

Contemporary, casual. I want to wear these pieces, and I want to wear them POSTHASTE.

6 - Collection: 3.1 Phillip Lim

One of the only LOVED collections that I still love as much; and for the same reasons.

Posting this look from it 'cos it's a pretty good example of the things I loved here.

5 - Collection: Giambattista Valli

So, to write this, I just flicked through my previous AW10 posts. As you will note, very few of the pieces/collections here are from the "LOVED" posts. I guess it's retrospective? Hindsight? After a couple of weeks of not looking at things, I'm not as in love as I once was. That said, Valli's collection still sticks in my mind, and the more I look at the pieces I picked out, the more I love it.

4 - Piece: THIS Dior bag.

Similar to the googly-eyed Giles, but cooler. Gimmicks are cute and stuff, but while both bags would probably get matted evench, at least this one wouldn't also have scratched googly eyes. And it looks so soft!

3 - Collection: Haider Ackermann

SO good; but specifically this look:

2 - Look: Fendi

Drawn to it; can't explain.

1 - Trend: The evening skirt/day time top combo.

YES.

As seen almost exclusively in Paris (Or, I only noticed it there), at Jasmine di Milo, Dries Van Noten and Martin Grant respectively. So much love for this look.

Notable mentions: Mr. Pugh's leather-bound wonders; structural peplum-y looks at DSquared and Louise Goldin; big floaty gingham skirt + sleeveless trench affair at Tommy Hilfger. Ouioui.

all pics from style.com/vogue.it

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paree - fashion week roundup part 2

Part due!
...pics from style.com/vogue.it

Limi Feu

All black = chic; loose and slouchy = kinda into right now (but I'd probably cinch things in if I was wearing them...), so of course I'd pull some looks from Limi. The silky shirtdress and the oversized coat with the crochet ...skirt? ...layer? ...awesome.

Martin Grant

The perfect skirt. Stunning colour; gorgeous drape. And another example of the evening skirt/daytime top styling that I'm in love with (note to self: full length evening skirt)

Alexander McQueen

I had to mention him. Although, not my favourite collection... But this was stunning. I could appreciate the craftsmanship in every piece, and the attention to detail, even if not everything was to my taste.

Rick Owens

Love the plated pieces, especially the coat. Mad structure. Lovelovelove. Rick and Haider Ackermann always vie for my attention, every season, with their similar aesthetics. I guess Ackermann pulled ahead this season? Step it up, Rick!

Sonia Rykiel

Gorgeous, gorgeous, gorgeous. The cuts, the colours, the patterns, the drape, the styling?? All of these 3 looks; I am in love with. Up there with the things I most want to wear come autumn/winter. (sidenote: I would like to not be talking about autumn when it's just turning spring now; kthnx)

Victor & Rolf

Yeah, these are just shoes and details...

Truth be told, as much of a V&R fan as I am, they didn't do it for me this season. The spectacle was interesting; and the way some pieces transformed from dress to coat etc was pretty amazing, but I suggest you find a video of that, because, on their own, nothing stood out. Taken as clothes and purely clothes.....meh.

But look at the awesome shoes! And I like the way those sleeves hang, over the leather gloves.

Vanessa Bruno

This collection were inspired by dancewear, or more specifically, what dancers wear to practice (I think?), and while that inspiration was a bit hit and miss elsewhere, I really enjoyed the bralette and wrapover affairs in the jersey, especially over the more floaty pieces. Love that leather sash too.

Vivienne Westwood

While I doubt I'll be doodling a little beard on come autumn, I would very much like to be wearing this dress. Make it happen, Vivs, make it happen.

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Previous AW10 posts at:

paris roundup; volume one

loved: gareth pugh & haider ackermann

loved: shoes @ balenciaga

hair @ paris

milan roundup

loved: versace&dolce

london roundup
loved: todd lynn
new york roundup
loved: 3.1 philip lim

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S/S 10, Part Nove

Oo, look I'm keeping up with Paris and everything! Mad skillz.

So let's take a break from Europetravelz (FYI I am a bit in love with Berlin; almost - ALMOST - to NYC/London standards. Gotta love those big cities.) So YES.

I'm not at all wowed by t'Paris shows, as it goes, which is probs good since I haven't got time to check them out particularly extensively.

It's all a bit meh. Even - in fact, especially! - Balmain and Balenciaga. WHAT IS UP WITH THAT SHIT?!
We may never know.

So I dunno how much I can be bothered to write.....you can look at the pretty pictures either way, and be amused by my lacklustre comments.

Rue Du Mail

Skirt in first look. Niice.

Gareth Pugh

Didn't love the show; did love these looks. Espec the first two. There's a maxi skirt on ASOS similar to the second look, that I was toying with....if it's still on when I get back and it's still cheap then p'raps it'll be getting purchased.

Limi Feu

Mmm volummmmme. You can tell she's Yohji's daughter, maaan.

A F Vandevorst

The trousers tucked into stockings thing is kinda odd. But good odd. I think. Maybe? I doubt it works for every day but it's certainly interesting in an editorial sense... Nice shades too.

Yohji Yamamoto

Not loving much more than the lightweight full coats. Which are hawt.

Dior

I just like this. Yeah? Yeah.

Ann Demeulemeester

Maxi skirt love.

Haider Ackermann

Just plain ol' skirt love. J'adore the shape.

Jean Paul Gaultier

Probs my fave Paris collection as of now. LOVE the tights. Like the styling. Like the looks. All from the middle and end section though...But yeah. Good work! I have a severe case of the wants for looks 1 and 5.