mambo italiano.

All imgs from style.com

Hit it, Milano.

Prada

I know. Prada, on my blog. Once we're past the round-shouldered, boxy coats, be-eyelet-ed pieces, car-seat skirts and elasticated boob tubes, though, there's a section (looks 18-23 of the 41 on style.com) of pleated leathers and sheers in block colours or abstract blobs which I really like, before falling back into the too-kitsch-for-their-own-good prints and shapes. Sigh.

Trussardi

Another 'well styled, colourful separates' situation; the Italian Paul Smith, if you will. What can I add? I love the one-shade looks and the huge leather bag/suitcase situations...

Jil Sander

Raf Simon's last show for JS was a mostly white affair, with the occasional mutli-coloured paisley and the odd 'face jumper' - see below. The first white dresses were my favourite; calf-length, faux-collars, sheer and opaque panels...

Marni

A colour palette of what-I-call neon pastels at Marni, complete with sheer sheath skirts worn underneath full skirted options - of course, those aren't the looks I've picked out, that would be too easy! Suddenly there was a 60s neon-pastel floral that came first in shirt collars and the in whole outfits. I kind of love it? Not my style at all, but utterly adorable, with the calf length socks/strappy shoes combo.

You can't put an era on this collection - the prints and colours are a bit 60s, but the silhouettes run from 40s to whenever. The middle looks; the more textural pieces are my favourites, with their waist cut outs and (still) sheer slips peeking out, before the collection delves into boxy dress and tee shapes printed with vest dress and vest shapes in the same floral patterns as before.

No. 21

Layers in similar shades but different textures; always appreciated. The bra top/long, tight, high-waisted skirt look has been around a lot in Milan but here is one of my favourite interpretations. And the checked jumper/trousers look is just the right side of pyjama-y. Do want.

Dolce & Gabbana

It makes absolutely no sense that I should love this when I hated Prada's fruit print situation last spring/summer season, but there you go. It's all in the silhouette, right? Especially the purple-y print - Grapes? Aubergines? Who cares. They're just the right amount of faded to appeal to me, and in 'retro', midriff baring shapes that I very much enjoyed in Milan (and beyond...)

and again.

More LDN done good, but without (as much of) the skirt-volume-factor I was harping on about last post...

Even Alice Temperley sez London is better than NY (but then, I guess she's biased...)

All imgs from style.com

Danielle Scutt

Weird/interesting beady things, layered prints and twisted pieces here - a little reminiscent of the DIY/style bubble tie-things-round-yourself styling in places (which was interesting, rather than cringe-y). Can't help but love the yellow/black polka dot, the washed-out tartan and the pleated skirts.

Giles

Very show-y - not quite to McQueen standards but certainly flirting with the idea, non? - but the stand out pieces for me were anything involving laser-cut silver leather, especially when paired with a plain white tee or a pair of orange trousers.

Paul Smith

The yellow is lemon; it's almost neon, but it isn't. The checks and block colours are wonderful (as always). The trousers are all fantastically cut (espesh the electric blue ones.). Paul Smith just knows how to do great casual separates and how to style them, season after season.

Mulberry

I can't get behind the Barbarella hair - and I love big hair, dammit - but I can get behind everything else - the bright lemon shade (again), the khaki, the socks with sandals, the tonal looks. Everything looks insanely comfy, and either fits, ties or is belted at the waist = fash-un bliss.