NY top five.

Oh, New York.
I think I'm having an 'enh' moment with fashion; or maybe I'm just looking for something new, since the grad collections were of such interest to me in June...
Usually I look through every single look; but a combo of laziness and lack of time this year means every label got one page of style.com thumbnails to impress me. Many did not make the cut. Even my usual favourites...

Kors, you have let me down.

Lim, what happened to you, man?

I noticed far too much neon (neon is back already? oh.) - thought I'm a fan of the burnt orange/lime green/electric blue shades coming through, sort of...muted neons, if you will - and so many collections just didn't catch my eye, but there are some that did and are therefore worth posting (well done to all below.)

There ended up being five collections that peaked my interest, so this is sort of a top five but in no partics order or anything like that...



A Détacher

We all know how I feel about leather harness situations (I hope) and skinny, orange or brown, almost delicate ones are no exception. Really into the muted pinks and beiges and the big polka dot motifs, and the scratchy houndstooth print, though the patchwork denim and shapeless dresses in the middle brought it down a bit...

Band of Outsiders

Braces and collars feature heavily here, which I guess means 'menswear inspiration'... but a print which is reminiscent of my bedsheets (maybe BoO have been traipsing round Ikea lately) and some cute details - mismatched stripes; always a fan - make for a pretty cool collection. Also, the model in the second one really reminds me of Sarah Jessica Parker. Anyone else?

Jason Wu

I'm over florals. In fact, can we call a moratorium on florals please, fash-un?
EVERY.
SPRING.
SUMMER.
SEASON.
ENOUGH.
I'll give you this season, but if i see so much as a petal next S/S, I'm gonna lose it.

That said...Jason Wu did some petal-y prints - NOT YOUR AVERAGE FLORAL ALERT - so...maybe a total crackdown on the use of flowers in fashion was a little hasty. I like this print. I can even let the continuing popularity of the hotpant slide. Mostly because the colour combos here are stunning, and the look with the blue print skirt/lime green sleeveless shirt/orange lips caught my eye in thumbnail form and must be worshipped.

Victoria Beckham

You heard me. The orange/purpleyblue striped dress takes last seasons Prada and tailors it to my taste, for starters (I was not a fan of last seasons Prada, FYI), and the other dresses here have great strap details. Like sturdy bag handles, which doesn't sound like a good thing but totally is.

Yigal Azrouël

THANKYOU.

Since I looked at all the NY collections on one go, alphabetically, it was kinda depressing that I got to the second off last collection before I found the one - the I-want-everything collection. The colours, the cuts, and the styling are all so what I wanted to see right now. Seriously though, if the green jersey button up dress, calf length print situation, floor length shirt dress and entire last look could make their way to me/to a high street near me posthaste, that would be just great.

Also, the bags are wonderful. Always love a satchel style.

textures.

keep on keepin' on:

there's so much to like at yigal azrouël - elsewhere in the collection, brightly coloured separates clashed in the vein of jil sander, and shades of fuschia were to be found*, but above i've picked out the royal blues, the panelling in mixed textures (bit leather, bit chiffon) and some looks with fantastic layering. wonderful cuts all around.

*seems fuschia is one of the colours de jour this season, along with the aforementioned royal blue - both much appreciated.

and at 3.1 phillip lim, there are contrasting leather or studded sleeves abound, and fantastic accessories including the interesting cut on the court shoe. i appreciate an interesting take on a court shoe. the strappy sandals are a little too stiletto - a chunkier heel is always best* - but the straps themselves are nice (love the centre toe covering. not a covered toe, not quite an open toe).

that salmon/grey/blue colour scheme in #5 is gorgeous.

*at least from a comfort pov. is the wind changing? are chunky heels moving out and stilettos making a comeback? despair.

accessory shots from vogue.it

en why see - fashion week roundup

in advance, all pics are from style.com

'Ere, Lim, see what you've done?! Made me reconsider and do a roundup. Goddamn you.

These are random looks I dragged to my desktop for one reason or another. Let's talk about em.

Narciso Rodriquez
I remember looking at this and going "I want to wear that". Pure and simple.

Yigal Azrouel
Loved the extra thin knit with the cable-y shoulders.

Vera Wang
Stared at this for a good 5 minutes; giddy at the thought of sheer ruffly-poofiness. Nuff said?

Kimberly Ovitz
Gahhhhhh distressed knit and asymmetry drooool
Loved the asym looks in this collection vair much. It was similar, but done differently to both last seasons Haider Ackermann and (ofc) this seasons Philip Lim.
Oh my, I do love asymmetry.

Malandrino
This is just cool, yknow?

Marchesa
Marchesa tends to be, a bit, too 'redcarpetplzwearmestarletspeeeez' for my liking, no matter how beautiful the pieces are. But I love the way the top is tattoo-esque and blends into the skirt; remind of SS10 Givenchy Couture, which I adored. Coulda done without the printed tights (?) carrying on the tattoo effect, but I can't put my finger on why it is that I don't like that. Too matchy-matchy, p'raps?

Nanette Lepore

I think I ummed and ahhed over the first one, finally deciding if I was wondering whether to save it for later or not for that amount of time I should probs just do it. Another thing I can just see myself wearing. Love everything about the second look - casual sequins, grey tights, the cut of the coat, the colours of all the pieces, and the shoes. Oh my, the shoes.

Chado Ralph Rucci

The little peeks of sheers and cut outs here intrigued me. Sequins with chiffon done in a way which isn't overly girly, OTT, or infact anything other than classy and interesting is a success in my eyes.

Douglas Hannat

The blue blouse is everything you could want from a blue sheer blouse - let's face it, if you're gonna wear an almost neon blue, sheer blouse, you might as well go poofy sleeved and pussy bowed too. The red dress is like the perfect throw-on day dress, imo.

Tommy Hilfiger
I was surprised to find stuff I loved here, but then I found Hilfiger in my tags, so evidently I've featured 'im before. There were some standouts here - slouchy tartan jackets; some lovely looking grey jersey; this wonderfully perfect checked skirt that I need in my life, and the gorgeous peacock coloured and folded skirt in the first look all caught my eye - but setting eyes on the sleeveless trench with the jersey lapels made me say "YES" at the screen. For all the trenches I've seen, this is the most modern, sporty take on it. It seems to be building on AWangs SS10 outing, non?

Preen

Cut outs and delicacy under structural (but still soft) shapes; I like. But for a collection I pulled 4 looks from, I don't have much to say on it...

Brian Reyes
Here there be more grey jersey; more foldy/loopy/pleaty detailed skirts; interesting layers and sheeny shiny, loose fitting, extra comfy looking trews. Plus sequins, and that matte metallic-y tee in look 3, which might just be perfect. Yum.

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