paris, paris...

oh, with your eyes so blue
No?
Oh, right, blogging, yeah. That thing.
I would say I've been busy, which I guess I have, but not that busy. I need to make time for things instead of wasting that time on nothing in particular.
Must focus; etc.

This is Paris: Part 1, I guess, since there are a whole bunch of collections I like enough to write about.
BEGIN.


Hermés

The scarves/flowing dresses are giving me a definite nun vibe, but I do like these monochrome looks...

Hussein Chalayan

Chalayan was much tamer this season; but the long blazers and cut away dresses - like a much more wearable version of the infamous Spring 2010 Viktor & Rolf collection - were very covetable. *ahem*

A.F. Vandervorst

Slightly military influences here - man after my own heart - with traditional frogging at an awkward angle and decorative ropes across chests and so on, but mixed with the now signature Vandevorst draping and pulling, and the tone on tone colour. Bliss.

Jean Paul Gaultier

One of the only shows I looked at, first time, the whole way through. Classic Gaultier here - what's to add? Tongue-in-cheek, pinstripes, suiting, and lingerie, and wonderful as ever.

Paco Rabanne

I'll end on another favourite. Manish Arora is in the hot seat now at Rabanne, and the boy done good. I'm not usually a big fan of Arora's own label, but within the confines of the Rabanne name, there's almost a ladylike edge. The shapes, loud fabrics and sex appeal is all Arora, but the editing and styling means everything was just right - not too much, not too tacky, not overdone; just right. And I say this about a collection with many a shiny bottom half/sparkly top half combo.

paree - fashion week roundup

Part uno!
(all images style.com/vogue.it)

AF Vandervorst
Love the colour themed looks, and the combination of draped and bound; hard and soft. The chalk line pinstripe is witty, and knitwear pretty awesome. Hey, is that a shoulder cape?

Ann Demeulemeester
The two all black looks here are chic AND unusual. Rocking that Ann D twist, of course. Can't figure out if the second one (indeed, both) is a jumpsuit or a suit, but I love it either way.

Jasmine di Milo
Over the top evening skirt paired with simple, dressed down, day top. This is the look I want to be wearing, 24/7. And it's not the only version of this look featured at Paris. Which OFFICIALLY makes it a trend, and by far my favourite this season. No to minimalism (blergh!); YESYESYES to evening skirts and casz knitwear (how the eff do you spell casz, as in the casual...????).

Dior
1) LOVE THE BAGS. MUST HAVE FLUFFY BUT SOMEHOW CHIC BAG IN LIFE; POSTHASTE.
2) That black dress is almost - ALMOST - Project Runway rubbish bag challenge territory. But a winner of one of these challenges, of course. Pretty sweet-ass.
3) Tiered jacket with fluff spikes from under the tiers? Whatinthewhat?
4) Lace booties. YEAH.
5) Still loving the hair.
5) Big, stompy boots with impossibly floaty and girly (but in the best possible way/the only way I like, dammit) maxi dresses, probs in silk & embellished in a fabulous + vintage-y manner....oh my yes.

Dries Van Noten
Love the shoes. Love the 50s-y silhouettes with the longer length. Love the colours. Love the sleeveless trench. And of course, LOVE the silky printed skirt with the slouchy tee. Right on, Dries.
You and di Milo should definately get out of my brain. And into my wardrobe. Kthnx.

Giambattista Valli
Love the hair and makeup; but also the little details. The embellishments, the white bib on the black evening dress (giving it a tux kinda feel); the perfect shape on the black babydoll in look 2; the sheeeeeeer, and the AMAZING textures in look 1 - probably one of my top looks from Paris, if not from this season.

This may have just prompted me to do an absolute top 10 AW10. Hmm.

Giles
I meh in the general direction of Giles; except for the crazy wire headpieces, and the googly eye bag, which is clearly genius.

Jean Paul Gaultier
Much like a Galliano collection, a JPG collection is often one I want to love (especially after his fabulous couture collection), and often it has all the ingredients. Clashing, layers, excess, maximalisation (it's a word, shutup.) - but also often, I get a little overwhelmed. This season it's a smidge pared down, non? As close to minimal as Gaultier is ever going to be, surely.
The first look is just wonderful, another example of a look I'd love to wear (although a skirt in the grey sweat but with less detail would be appreeshed).
I've no idea what I like about the 2nd look. Chic flyfishing? No. Idea.
In absolute love with those socks. Espesh paired with the houndstooth jacket (BIG fan of houndstooth); but also with that coat shape, which is awesome.
And the skirt in look 5, especially paired with that jumper, is a must. A MUST.

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Previous AW10 posts at:

loved: gareth pugh & haider ackermann

loved: shoes @ balenciaga

hair @ paris

milan roundup

loved: versace&dolce

london roundup
loved: todd lynn
new york roundup
loved: 3.1 philip lim

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