surgical spirit.

if new york's defining trend (or a least one i picked up and posted about) was the sleeveless raglan, and london's was.... bright colour? leather? what?... then it was only a matter of time 'til milan had a collective thought.

the first clues were at fendi and prada, but following the 'three's a trend' rule, i waited for the third to come through, and come through it did.

in a season where white and sheer are aspects to be noted, it was only a matter of time until some looks bearing more than a passing resemblance to medical garb trod the runway - now you can get your scrubs at prada, your hospital gowns at fendi and your lab coats* at max mara...

all images are, of course, from style.com. click the links for more from all 3 collections.

Prada:

Fendi:

MaxMara:

* that's lab coats or axe murderer chic, of course.

the countdown

Part trends to watch out for, I guess, but mostly pieces and looks I loved that I want to be wearing now, let alone when autumn comes around again.

10 - Piece: Shoes at Balenciaga

I guess these are coming down on a love/hate divide all over, but I can't get enough of them.

I think this is my favourite colourway.

9 - Look: Vera Wang

Sheer AND ruffly; styled so it's not too girly. Can not find fault.

8 - Look: Limi Feu

Just too awesome.

7 - Collection: No21

Contemporary, casual. I want to wear these pieces, and I want to wear them POSTHASTE.

6 - Collection: 3.1 Phillip Lim

One of the only LOVED collections that I still love as much; and for the same reasons.

Posting this look from it 'cos it's a pretty good example of the things I loved here.

5 - Collection: Giambattista Valli

So, to write this, I just flicked through my previous AW10 posts. As you will note, very few of the pieces/collections here are from the "LOVED" posts. I guess it's retrospective? Hindsight? After a couple of weeks of not looking at things, I'm not as in love as I once was. That said, Valli's collection still sticks in my mind, and the more I look at the pieces I picked out, the more I love it.

4 - Piece: THIS Dior bag.

Similar to the googly-eyed Giles, but cooler. Gimmicks are cute and stuff, but while both bags would probably get matted evench, at least this one wouldn't also have scratched googly eyes. And it looks so soft!

3 - Collection: Haider Ackermann

SO good; but specifically this look:

2 - Look: Fendi

Drawn to it; can't explain.

1 - Trend: The evening skirt/day time top combo.

YES.

As seen almost exclusively in Paris (Or, I only noticed it there), at Jasmine di Milo, Dries Van Noten and Martin Grant respectively. So much love for this look.

Notable mentions: Mr. Pugh's leather-bound wonders; structural peplum-y looks at DSquared and Louise Goldin; big floaty gingham skirt + sleeveless trench affair at Tommy Hilfger. Ouioui.

all pics from style.com/vogue.it

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milano - fashion week roundup

There were hundreds of looks in Milan - an average of about 50 looks a show, perhaps? 80 at Dolce & Gabbana...EIGHTY.
So, to pick out some that I really liked, I'm gonna have to ignore some of the more obvious choices. Jil Sander is ne'er a favourite (you know my style by know; Sander is a little too minimalist for me), and the billowy maxis and opening military looks at Roberto Cavalli were gorgeous but not particularly noteworthy. Below are, as always, some stuff I pulled to my desktop for some reason or other.

& of course, all images are from style.com

Etro

Nothing at all ground-breaking, but that's how to do cool casual.

DSquared2

Meh to DSqaured, but epic love for this top. Cobwebby + hip structure?! YES.

Just Cavalli

Again, cute casual looks; easily wearable but oozing cool. Love the biker trousers.

Missoni

BIG fan of the slouchy knit look, and the holy skirt.

No21

I absolutely love the colour palette here, and the pieces. The second look in particular.

Armani

The first two looks were the first two looks in the show - perfect slouchy shorts and fur; draped sequin coat (!!!!!!!!!!!!!). yesplease.

Fendi

Loving the silhouettes here, and the colours (the mustard skirt poking out of the moss coloured coat is ace). Oo also the fur collar-y thing in the third look. But what I REALLY loved at Fendi were the bags; and I'm not even a bag person, really.

Iceberg

It's becoming a pattern; I can't seem to say anything other than "I LOVE THIS!" for every look....gah. But here we are again... The dress in look 1 is just fantastic, and looks 2 and 3 have this perfect mix of effortless cool (slouchy, sporty basics up top) and sexy, feminine vibes down below (swishy thigh high split skirts). My, yes.

Francesco Cognamiglio

By my calculations/knowledge of italian, that's pronounced fran-ches-co con-ya-me-lio, factfanssss
Big skirts, cut outs, a lace dress that doesn't make me turn up my nose (the structure takes it away from being too girly), drapes, extra thin knit and epic structured collar? yesyesyes.

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Previous AW10 posts at:

loved: versace&dolce

london roundup
loved: todd lynn
new york roundup
loved: 3.1 philip lim

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