"All Walks Beyond the Catwalk is an initiative founded by Caryn Franklin, Debra Bourne and Erin O’Connor working with influential Catwalk designers and top industry creatives to celebrate more diversity within the fashion industry."I bring it up now as this year, All Walks had a stand and did some press at GFW (they did last year, too, but I wasn't there in 2010), and beforehand, Caryn Franklin made the trip up north to give a (really interesting) talk at Northumbria.
Monday, 4 July 2011
all walks.
Sunday, 26 June 2011
full of Grace.
Fashion is often perceived as a lowbrow, fluffy subject. Does that annoy you?
Fashion is art, and there are designers who are geniuses. It's highbrow. Are you saying Hussein Chalayan isn't a genius? I have felt demeaned when saying I work in fashion but that's only because people don't understand what I do. They confuse styling and fashion with the high street.
So what is the difference?
Fashion, in its purest sense, is about breaking rules. High street is a watered-down interpretation. I am a stylist, and style is neither fashion nor high street. Stylish people tend to shop the least because they aren't swayed by what's on-trend or in-store.
You're not a fan of Primark then?
I appreciate the high street but "fashion" for the masses is everywhere, like processed white bread. Everyone eats it.
The fashion industry is often accused of being run by interns. Do you agree with this culture of unpaid work?
I blame universities. They are taking 60-plus students on their fashion courses when there just aren't enough jobs out there. It's irresponsible because they end up interning for no payback. Why is there no accredited apprenticeship scheme with fashion houses, where designers get paid to impart a trade that makes you viable? I have thought about going to David Cameron about it. It's giving fashion a bad name.
You seem passionate about the ethics of the industry – what's your take on the body image debate? Do you resent fashion getting the blame?
Fashion magazines shouldn't have to bear the weight of the responsibility. It's a lazy observation, cultivated by the media. Like I said, we are trying to create a fantasy, not tell people how to look. I know it sounds like a flimsy argument but I don't think you can nanny people. It's a psychological issue. It's not fashion's fault.
Saturday, 12 March 2011
and the winner is.
Sunday, 29 August 2010
the plight of aa.
Saturday, 21 August 2010
elaine.
Friday, 12 March 2010
who makes "the rules" or, where's my fucking maxi skirt?!
Who is it who dictates what we can and cant wear?
Who makes The Rules?
Who says fat birds cant have cake AND bodycon (quote Ana...), and who says short girls can't do full length or hareems? (And yes, this is related to the ode to the maxi post....)
While it would be simple to scapegoat the media, from the gossip mags who demand "what were you thinking??" of celebs, to the high fashion bibles which set the trends, it isn't necessarily they who set these Rules. Quite the contrary; the answer, it seems, is you and me.
We (by which I mean women, primarily. And the gays. The gays always have an opinion on the fashion), are destined to give each other the once over and declare "that dress makes her look fat", or "those jeans are doing nothing for her arse".
While yes, it is likely that such publications as heat, and the tabloids, have influenced the way we think, it is our own mentality, and our modern day society, which forces us to judge others.
Not that that's always a bad thing - style is subjective, everyone has different tastes, if we were all the same it'd be boring, blahblahblah - but often turns into public ridicule, and herein I draw the line. There is, quite simply, no need.
I'm ready and willing to put my hand up and declare myself a little guilty. We all are. It is, to quote Prince, a sign o' the times.
Personally, I think you look ridiculous in your Ugg boots; tatty from walking in the rain/snow/ANY WEATHER IN THE UK*, and with jogging bottoms tucked it. Yeah I'm looking at you, rah community.
I always bring it back to the height issue, because it's relevant to me, but this goes for any body shape. We are conditioned to believe that we can't wear certain pieces if we're built a certain way. No taking into account styling, or, y'know, whether we care for The Rules.
The Rules are there to dampen creativity. They probably were created by the media, for the style "challenged"; those who now rely on Gok to supply them with dressing ideas; in order to give them a vague guideline. To box them in. They'll look good, sure, but they'll look the same as everyone else. As you will look the same as everyone else if you only shop at Topshop (cue more ridicule.). The Rules are there to make the world a "prettier place", if you will. Where everyone dresses "well".
But I, for one, am not interested in "pretty".
I'd much rather have "interesting".
Why else is it that blogs so popular right now? Because they are full of people breaking the rules, and keeping it interesting.
Queen Michelle @ Kingdom of Style dons lingerie as outerwear on the regular.
Arabelle @ Fashion Pirates has been known to wear a tablecloth as a skirt.
Susie Bubble throws on, like, 25 different florals in one outfit.
Do these people care about the rules? No. Are they criticised for it? Quite the opposite.
They pull it off because the have confidence (having a blog and sharing your style with the internet world = confidence, in my eyes.), and (I hope), they don't have time for the people who tell them they look all wrong.
If there is one thing I've learnt in my time immersed in the fashion world, it is this: there's no such thing as The Rules.
Make up your own rules, goddammit.
In the end, unless you have achieved a level of fame where you could end up on a Worst Dressed list; you are dressing for yourself and yourself only, so who gives a shit what anyone else thinks? And even if you ARE at that level of fame, you are pandering to people who have different tastes. One gossip coloumns' worst dressed is another's best dressed. Any press is good press. Good lord.
But, of course, to throw away these Rules; for everyone to accept that they don't really exist... well, that would create chaos.
See, in Rule-following, there are two camps.
Non-followers (denouncers, perhaps?) deem followers unimaginative; sheep; boring. Label whores. Trend-a-holics.
Followers deem non-followers ridiculous; over the top; crazy for crazies sake. Try-hard. Weird.
What neither camp takes into account is that all of these people; every single one; when dressing on a morning, puts on what they feel comfortable in. Or at least, I hope this is the case.
I think I can say with conviction that there are no Rules. There aren't! There is but one, and it is as follows:
Thou shalt dress in what thou bloody well wants, and thou shalt not judge others for doing the same (at least not out loud.)
And, y'know, I reckon caring what others think isn't a desirable character trait, yeah?
-------------
Hey! Some related posts around the internetz!
teh rulez @ Nice&Tacky
an awesome maxi look on a 5'6"-ish lady @ Fashion Looks North
ana done a post too, @ one fabulous thing after another
-------------
* seriously, what weather are the supposed to be for? Sheepskin boots don't do well in wet conditions, aka winter, and are too hot in summer, surely? I will ne'er understand...
-------------
Wednesday, 10 February 2010
the great vintage debate
This is, in fact, another Vice-based article. And I warn you, it's pretty heavy.
Firstly, if you haven't seen the Guide to Liberia you should watch it in full or by chapter - here it starts at part 1 of 8; you'll need a spare hour-ish to watch it all...
Monday, 8 February 2010
the trouble with tavi; or 'why IS everyone jealous of a 13-year-old?'
I never really intended to join in with this somewhat random trend - it wasn't necessary. It isn't necessary. I'm not in the habit of commenting on other blogs - there's room for everyone in the blogosphere; you read those that you want, you bookmark what you like, you forget what you don't - but sometimes it's good to articulate things, and rather than dabble in the aforementioned influx of posts, leaving comments, I might as well put my thoughts all together in one place.
If you have been living under a rock, or y'know, aren't immersed fully within the fashion blogging world then really do click the link above and ponder Tavi's blog.
One thing I won't really comment on, though, are claims that 'it's not her who writes it'. The claim that comes to mind cites the Rodarte video Tavi made for their Target line as their source, saying that in person, the way she talks of fashion doesn't sit with the blog musings. I haven't seen the video, but I second some comments I've seen that express their disbelief that anyone who would write a blog like that; that successful; would let a middle school student take the credit.
My only...problem? That's not the word, but that's the only one I can think of. My reservation, perhaps. Or, my first thought upon hearing of her and checking her out... is that Tavi's style isn't all that, to me. I know, I know, style is subjective, but I think the point is that, to me, her style only works because of her age.
The 'throw anything on' approach sometimes comes close to bag lady territory in my eyes, but at 13 that's ok, even kind of cute. A juxtaposition, certainly. I understand the interest, but it's not for me.
To address this blog title though...she's everywhere.
She's front row at Dior Couture.
She's writing for POP and Harper's Bazaar.
She is, essentially, living the dream life of a fashion journalist; but without having "earned it".
Lesley Blume, Style Editor for the Huffington Post thinks "...she’s very dear, but I think it’s crazy. I think it was insulting enough when we were expected as adult women to take our fashion cues from Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen. All of a sudden women in the fashion world were starting to look like bag ladies. I mean, that’s very silly."
"People in fashion are constantly looking for the next unique boundary-pushing extreme thing to get excited about, but, you know, it’s like outsider art. What am I getting out of a 13-year-old’s opinion about fashion? How does that help me distill the collections? What am I supposed to be buying? That’s what an editor’s job at a magazine is."
-------------
Wednesday, 27 January 2010
around town
Wednesday, 20 January 2010
body image is a pretty serious matter, actually.
I warn, it's lengthy - there's an intro rant, a link which you MUST read before continuing, a lengthy dissection of said linked article, and a bit of a pimp to an on-going campaign which is very much connected, but I guarantee you it's worth it, and I hope you do read and leave your thoughts.
I was at home this weekend, which is the only place I tend to read non-fashion magazines. Now, not to say that body image hasn't been addressed in fashion publications, cos I'm sure you've all seen, at least online, the articles in ELLE Canada [here] and V [here] and [here], mostly involving the gorgeous Crystal Renn. If not, of course, click the links above and have a little look see - all provided by the very opinionated and fabulous Tom&Lorenzo. They pretty much share my views on these editorials.
I'll wait.