if there was a theme at gucci, i didn't spot it, but style.com insists on the 70s angle (via the 40s, in my opinion. see: the first coat, below. amiright? iamright.) and the influence of one florence welch of florence and the machine fame (ok, yeah, i see it).
in typical venturess style, i've gone and picked out only one of the rich colours from a collection bursting with them, but truth be told the cut of the full-length coats and the two sheer polka dot numbers below were the ones which intrigued me most of all the 51 looks.
this season was a little outerwear heavy, even for burberry, no? very few looks without coats or jackets...
at uni, a bunch of us sat around my laptop to watch the show live on monday - we weren't particularly wowed. the dog theme seems to be a(n unwanted, thanks) london trend after the dalmatian motifs at topshop unique and the spotted hats here, as well as the poodle-y fur coats, but of course there were pieces to love too. the distinct 60s theme yielded some great skinny trousers in various shades (plum, lime, etc), and there were interesting cuts and textures on trench coats.
but let's not pretend that we're here to talk about the clothes when the shoes are this good:
aquascutum were knocking it out of the park; as is the expression. the rich purple and bright orange work fantastically with neutral greys/camels/blacks and the layering is just fantastic (see #2 - skirt, jumper, long jacket, fur collared/padded gilet situation. i mean, i think that's the situation. the mark of good layering: when you can't tell where one item ends and another begins).
london - clearly i'm not there, but let's not act like i'm not pretending.
fantastic coats and textures at charles anastase in rich autumnal shades. the inky blue coat with the big brown buttons was the first look out and the a-line cut really caught me straight away; but then he cemented that with red pony skin and fuzzy-looking sleeveless numbers. the textural skirt with little grey jumper and the red knit dress feel like pieces i should already own (the knits, anyway. maybe not the skirt. which i should acquire...), but they seem fresh at the same time. and the shoes, THE SHOES! i did look for some detail shots buy my usual haunts turned nothing up. big-ass platform boots; what's not to like?
house of holland always makes me happy, despite my love of bright colours being relatively new (currently rocking neon yellow nails; believe.)
this season henners went for a granny-flavoured collection, complete with neon tweeds and crochet-squared scarves and dresses. only HOH could send out a fuschia* tweed biker jacket and knee length shorts combo, paired with a floral shirt!, and make it seem legit, right for the label and fresh. personally, the little flared skirt in #1 (hell, the whole look) and the trench in #8, depsite my outright hatred of patent leather, are the top draws.
*told you fuschia was gonna be big.
jonathan saunders is also fond of brights this season; and colour blocking; and prints. in fact, colour blocking bright prints is very much histhing for a/w, and the colour choices are wonderful. see #5 and #6 inpartics.
finally, jaeger were showing er'rybody else how outerwear is done.
leather and wool trench coat; POW.
full length shearling with ma-hoo-sive collar; BOOM.
boxy mustard jacket with huge lapels; ZING.
the 'done to death but always awesome' venturess-endorsed* military theme is abound, and the pocket detailing is great, especially when in contrasting textures (#10). and look, more fuschia!
*you'll see; the next shows i'll be covering will be northumbria's, and GFW. and who should be taking the most military route, at least out of womenswear? this girl.
in all honesty, the above two looks from l'wren scott are the only ones that really got my attention, and they were the first two looks. flared dusky pink coat and matching shoes; beige and turquoise print dress (gorgeous combo). lovely. but the shoes, THE SHOES:
multi-strap court shoes in blacks or dusky pinks/browns and golds. i don't actually care if they're kitten heels (no side views; it is a possibility), i think i might need them in my life.
there's so much to like at yigal azrouël - elsewhere in the collection, brightly coloured separates clashed in the vein of jil sander, and shades of fuschia were to be found*, but above i've picked out the royal blues, the panelling in mixed textures (bit leather, bit chiffon) and some looks with fantastic layering. wonderful cuts all around.
*seems fuschia is one of the colours de jour this season, along with the aforementioned royal blue - both much appreciated.
and at 3.1 phillip lim, there are contrasting leather or studded sleeves abound, and fantastic accessories including the interesting cut on the court shoe. i appreciate an interesting take on a court shoe. the strappy sandals are a little too stiletto - a chunkier heel is always best* - but the straps themselves are nice (love the centre toe covering. not a covered toe, not quite an open toe).
that salmon/grey/blue colour scheme in #5 is gorgeous.
*at least from a comfort pov. is the wind changing? are chunky heels moving out and stilettos making a comeback? despair.
knife pleated skirts and interesting florals at karen walker. what i like about this season thus far is that florals are still here in a big way, but they seem to be toned down; given a slight harsh or gothic edge, or distorted somehow. these muted photographic prints against a grey-beige background mean the froth-factor is turned right down. there's something really retro about them, but the cut and styling mean they don't look like vintage pieces. adore the colours too; lemon yellow and royal blue against grey marl is a wonderful combination.
the dresses at rodarte were a little /too/ 'little house on the prairie' for my taste (the gathered panels from the knee and ditsy prints are the culprit, i think, though the weird collar situation in #4 is cool), but the coats are all beautiful. i don't recall a previous outerwear-heavy rodarte collection, but there should have been one if these full length beauties with crossovers, cutouts and double collars are anything to go by.
and finally, this rachel roy look is adorable (and so me).
love the coat fastenings at the row, plus that second wool a-line dress; perfectly styles (read: as i would wear it. ok, maybe not with the huge fur hat situation, and definitely with heels, but this look is seriously making me consider the necessity of leather opera gloves, amiright? i am right.). little lace, check. little textural leather (croc skin crop vest, come at me bro) as part of monochrome leather look, check.
in summary, "olsens produce cool, casual collection with some really sweetass pieces" - business as usual then.
meanwhile, bensoni seems to have had a sift through my wardrobe.
floral bodycon, 50s style skirts, thigh high boots, sheer and floaty topped with a cropped jacket...
lovely colours; and the first floral dress is the business. the dripping, dull pink flowers aren't too cutesy or girly; always appreciated.
all these leather situations at zero + maria cornejo can get in my wardrobe asap, in partics that 2nd look which is clear proof that brown and black can, nay, should go together. love the little details like the half belt and asym cut in the first look, and the relaxed button fastening in the fourth. that sixth look - fur lined, cowl hooded, leather - looks heavenly. maybe not practical in a rainy britain (hello rain-stained-leaather D:) but the warmth would sure be appreeshed.
black and blue, matte and shiny, leather and....leather.
always been an admirer of ADAM (a label that was on my 'shop report' short list...) and a/w11 hasn't let me down - blacks, blues, creams and greys (the bulk of my wardrobe in colour terms, then) plus checks, full and/or midi length skirts and a little sheer, texture and knit thrown in.
meanwhile alexander wang is doing capes and more capes - or "the curvy fashion girls's [sic] favorite" as derek blasberg tweeted during the show. right. sure. yeah. really? - featuring many a matte/shiny panel.
obvs awang is a fan of the 90s - he very much facilitated the grunge comeback, yeah? - but the shiny puffa jacket situation should be left there, imo. i leave the first look with you as the only example i picked out of said puffa situations, but it's really not the worst offender - and i love that the longer length at the back means you can see the padded inside; big fan.
the panelling really works better with the matte/gold sparkly knit pieces, right?
look 2 is really interesting - the knit blending into the silk - but may i enquire as to who isn't wearing shoes in winter? or for that matter, whose wearing knee boots with open toes and a toe post... hmm.
nothing truly remarkable at rebecca minkoff, but nipped in waists and leather over floaty pieces are always appreciated, and some nice colour combinations (the red shorts/grey jumper) plus cute document wallet style bags (always endearing, even if you can fit little into them unless it's, yknow, document-esque).
graphic panelling at rag & bone in bright primary shades and/or neutrals, with a little texture-mixing, too. particularly interested in the middle dress, given that the shape and placement of the panelling is somewhat similar to the shape and harness placement on one of the pieces in my collection (a piece i'm currently umm-ing and ahh-ing about whether i want it to me a floaty silk type of affair or a buttery leather type of affair. choices, choices.).
not too sold on the tartan pieces at r&b, though. which is odd, cos i do love tartan.
and at nahm - ally hilfiger off of tommy hilfiger's daughter new thing, with nary manivong, it was all about shirtdresses (and docs, duh.)
nothing new of course, but the 'burnt toe' docs are nice, as is the too long placket (#2), the asymmetry and the sometimes odd colour (burnt orange, mmmm.)
2nd hand jumper//h&m skirt+necklace//priceless boots
i look bemused. and i was far too hot in this, because this jumper is SO THICK, and leather, even faux, tends to be sweaty (yum). i like my version more than the organic by john patrick one...? i guess that's a good thing.
style.com is on it already with a bunch of shows and presentations, but of specific interest is organic by john patrick, as illustrated below:
no individual piece thrilled me straight away, but the layering and cobweb knits are dead good.
that leather skirt/slouchy grey jumper combo is about to be copied IRL. like, tomorrow. oh yes.
- we are in the process of raising money for our degree lookbook and are selling some postcards of a bunch of illustrations and suchlike from my classmates (none are mine, i'm in charge of online promotion by choice. cos i love the social networking), and you can buy them here if you're so inclined.
- got my dissertation marks back. 74%. pow.
*that sounds like i'm not excited. i am...but...my irrational need to see every look means more time out of my day that i can't really afford. which is why my blog reading either takes up most of my saturday or means i wander into uni about 11ish. ho hum.